4.9.25

Off the map: Road trip through Albania.


A one week journey by road through Europe's best kept secret - Albania.

Albania has been on my bucket list ever since I stumbled upon a few Instagram posts showcasing its stunning beauty last year. I couldn't wait to experience the country for myself—and after plenty of research and mapping out our route, we finally made it happen this summer.

This was a very last-minute trip. We both had an unexpected gap in our schedules between other travels, so we booked everything just two weeks before departure. Ideally, we would have gone in September, when it’s less touristy and the weather is cooler. But I had my eye on a few specific properties I’d been dreaming of staying at, and the only available week was in August. Naturally, that came with a higher price tag (which I’ll get into later in this post).

That said, I truly hope this blog inspires you to consider visiting Albania. It’s a hidden gem—underrated, incredibly beautiful, and absolutely worth exploring.


WHEN TO VISIT ALBANIA. 

The best time to visit Albania is between April and September, when the weather is warm and ideal for exploring the coast, mountains, and historical towns. That said, July and August are the peak tourist months—expect crowds, high temperatures, and inflated prices. If you plan to visit during this time, be prepared to pay double or even triple for accommodations, especially in popular coastal areas like Sarandë, Ksamil, or Dhërmi.

For a more relaxed (and budget-friendly) experience, I recommend visiting in late spring (May–June) or early fall (September). You'll still enjoy great weather, but with fewer tourists and more reasonable prices! 

GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND. 

I truly believe that when you’re traveling to a new country, you should always take advantage of stopovers—especially if there’s an opportunity to visit another country along the way. Whether it’s on the way there or on the way back, stopovers are a great way to squeeze in an extra destination without booking a completely separate trip.

That’s exactly what we did with Vienna, and even with just 24 hours, it gave us a fun and unexpected cultural experience. If your schedule allows, I highly recommend looking into multi-city or long layover options when planning your flights. Vienna definitely delivered when it came to architecture, culture, and charm. It reminded me a lot of the UK in terms of its elegance and vibe, though it had its own unique flair. Even with just a day, it was worth the visit and I am glad to check if off my list but I would not go back there unless I had another layover. 


When planning your trip to Albania, you generally have two main options for getting around:

  1. Rent a Car – This gives you the most freedom and flexibility, especially if you want to explore multiple towns or go off the beaten path (which I wouldn't recommend as usually those paths are one way streets where there is a two way if that makes sense ; so there will be a time when you'd have to hop on a curb to let a car pass you as it'll be going the other way). However, driving in Albania isn’t exactly a breeze. Road signs are minimal, GPS can be unreliable in certain areas (google maps & waze were the most accurate) and local drivers tend to be a bit aggressive—so if you're not super confident behind the wheel, it might be stressful.

  2. Fly into Corfu, Greece – A more relaxed option is to fly into the Greek island of Corfu, which is just across the water from southern Albania. From there, you can take a 30-minute ferry to Ksamil, one of the most beautiful beach towns in the country. After spending a few days relaxing there, you can grab a taxi to visit surrounding towns and still get a good feel for the region without having to drive yourself.

FIRST THINGS FIRST.

CASH. We seriously underestimated how much cash we’d need in Albania — and it definitely added a layer of stress to the trip.In most places we’ve traveled, we’ve been able to rely on credit cards for just about everything. But Albania is still developing in terms of infrastructure, and card payments aren't always an option, even in places where you’d expect them to be.

To avoid the scramble, make sure to:

  • Bring enough Euros or Albanian Lek (cash is accepted everywhere)

  • Exchange money at the airport or in larger cities where it's easier to find ATMs or currency exchange offices

  • Don’t assume every restaurant, shop, or small business will take cards — even if they look modern

Trust me, having cash on hand will make your trip a lot smoother!

ACCOMMODATIONS. As I mentioned earlier, this trip came together pretty last minute — so in the rush of booking everything, I didn’t even think to double-check whether my credit card had already been charged for the hotel reservations.

Well… we quickly learned that each property in Albania has its own payment policy, and things can be a bit unpredictable:

  • One hotel charged us at check-in

  • Another actually gave us a better rate than what we booked online and charged us the lower amount

  • And the third didn’t ask for payment until we were checking out

Just one of those little things that’s helpful to know ahead of time!

BEACHES. Keep in mind that many of the beaches along the scenic route throughout Albania are truly off the beaten path. While they look stunning on Instagram, actually reaching them is a different story.

  • Most require driving down very rough, narrow roads, often better suited for a 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle.

  • Even once you manage the drive, you’ll typically face a 30 to 50-minute hike just to get to the beach — and then back up again in the heat.

Unless you're up for an off-road adventure and some serious walking, I’d strongly recommend skipping the land route and instead booking a boat trip. That way, you can still see and even swim at these remote beaches — but from the ocean side, comfortably and without the stress.

PRICES. Let’s talk costs — because if you're planning a trip to Albania, this will help you gauge what kind of budget you might need, especially if you’re traveling during high season and staying at higher-end properties like we did.

For accommodations we paid anywhere from €150 to €400 per night (tax included) for our stays. Keep in mind:

  • This was August, which is peak season, so prices were higher.

  • We intentionally chose some of the nicest properties in each area.

  • Our mindset was: “We may not come back here again, so let’s do it right.”

No regrets — the places we stayed made the trip even more memorable.

Keep in mind that hotel prices can be high during peak season, but that doesn’t always mean you’re getting a five-star experience. Standards vary widely from country to country, and in Albania, the rating system and expectations can be quite different. So while some properties may charge luxury-level prices, the quality and amenities might be closer to 3-star hotels by global standards. It’s always a good idea to read recent reviews and set realistic expectations—especially if you’re traveling during the high season.

Meals. Food in Albania is very affordable overall, but of course, it depends on where and what you eat.

  • A meal can cost as little as €6 or as much as €30, depending on what you order.

  • My husband always went for things like grilled shrimp, which was usually around €10 — plus a local beer for a few extra euros.

  • I usually leaned toward dishes like tuna / steak / salmon tartare, and with a cocktail, my meals often landed in the 30 range.

  • Coffee was anywhere from €3 to €6, depending on the location and style (espresso vs. iced latte, etc.). 

A full tank of gas cost us around 60. During our week trip there I ended up getting two full tanks of it due to the amount of driving we did. 

A Heads-Up About the Nightlife (and Noise)

While all the properties we stayed at were absolutely gorgeous and located in some of the most desirable areas, there was one downside that caught us off guard: the music.

Whether we were in Ksamil or Vlorë, the hotel music was blasting—sometimes until midnight, and on a few nights, as late as 5 AM, depending on how busy or lively the hotel’s restaurant or lounge was. This made it really hard to get a good night’s sleep throughout the week, which was a bit of a challenge. I wish I’d known about this beforehand so I could have mentally prepared myself—and that’s exactly why I’m sharing it here. If you’re a light sleeper or need quiet nights, bring earplugs or consider accommodations a bit farther from the nightlife hubs.

Now that I’ve covered all the basic travel tips, let’s dive into our itinerary — which, I’m happy to report, was very well-received by the locals we met along the way! Multiple people told us we did a great job planning it out, and honestly, I agree — we managed to see so much of the country in a short amount of time without feeling totally rushed.

If you're looking to explore the best of Albania — from beaches to mountain towns — this itinerary might be a great starting point for you too. 


DAY 1.

We landed at around 2 PM, and by 3 PM we were already on the road, heading toward our first stop: Vlorë.

For the rental car, I booked through a company called Rentalux, which was located just across the street from the airport — super convenient. The only negative part was having to walk over there to pick up the car with all the luggage but when we dropped off the car at the end of the trip they were kind enough to give us a ride to the airport. 

The drive from Tirana to Vlorë took us about two hours. Along the way, we made a few stops — to fill up gas, check out a local market store, and grab some quick food. It was a nice way to ease into the trip and get a small taste of daily life in Albania. Our destination was a hotel I’d been eyeing since last summer — the main reason why we planned the trip for that specific week was due to its availability, since it’s almost always sold out.

The property is called Hotel Liro, perched on an actual cliffside overlooking the sea. It’s a truly unique and breathtaking location, and I’d highly recommend splurging to stay here—or at least to enjoy dinner at their restaurant with those views. That said, the hotel rate was around €350 which felt a bit steep considering the room quality. By global standards, I’d say the room itself was more like a 3-star experience.

Still, the location alone makes it worth it, especially if you’re looking for an unforgettable setting.

DAY 2-4. 

After enjoying breakfast (which, by the way, was included at every hotel we stayed at during this trip — a nice bonus!), we took some time to relax by the poolside and soak up the views before heading out toward our next destination: Ksamil.

The drive from Vlorë to Ksamil takes about three hours, but we chose to go the scenic coastal route, planning to stop at a few beaches and towns along the way. One of our favorite stops was Dhermi, a charming coastal town full of history and character. It’s perched on the hillside and offers incredible views, cobblestone streets, and a peaceful atmosphere. It made the perfect stop for lunch, giving us a chance to relax, enjoy a local meal, and take in a bit of Albanian village culture before continuing the drive.

After Dhermi, we made a quick detour to Gjipe Beach, which we’d seen pop up all over social media. But we quickly realized that the road to the beach was extremely narrow, yet still a two-way. We did have to hop up onto a cliffside curb to let another car pass multiple times during that drive— and that was enough for us. It felt pretty unsafe, so instead of continuing, we parked and launched the drone to check out the views from above (which were still stunning!).

Once we reached Ksamil, we checked into our second hotel, Denoel, where we spent 2 nights and 3 days. Honestly, that amount of time was more than enough to explore everything Ksamil has to offer — and there’s a lot. From day clubs and lounges to restaurants, beach bars, and water activities, Ksamil is buzzing with energy and definitely caters to a younger, livelier crowd.

We paid €600 for two nights at this property, which reflects the peak season rates and the hotel’s prime location. The hotel was modern, stylish, and perfectly located — within walking distance to just about everything you could want.

Pros:

  • Beach chairs included (huge plus since beach space in Ksamil can get competitive)

  • Breakfast included

  • Onsite parking

  • We had a cool two-floor suite with amazing sea views

  • Walking distance to shops, restaurants, and nightlife

Cons:

  • There’s a massive day club right next door, and it’s open until 5 AM

  • The hotel has minimal sound insulation, so if you're a light sleeper (or not planning to party), you’re going to have a tough time getting rest

My Take: If you're coming to Ksamil to party, enjoy the social scene, and be in the heart of it all, Denoel is a great pick. But if you're looking for peace and quiet, you may want to stay a bit outside the main strip and visit the center when you want the action.

During our time in Ksamil, we didn’t follow a strict itinerary or hit specific must-see spots — and honestly, that’s part of the charm. We spent our days just wandering between random beach clubs, cafes, and oceanfront lounges, soaking in the sun and the energy of the town. Ksamil is the kind of place where you really don’t need a plan. Just throw on your sandals, pack some sunscreen, and start walking. The town is compact and walkable, with plenty of places to eat, drink, and swim popping up every few steps. You’ll find clear turquoise water, beachfront cocktails, and plenty of music and vibes without even trying.

Bonus Tip: Hop Over to Greece!

If you’re feeling spontaneous and want to add another country to your trip, there’s a ferry from Ksamil (via Sarandë) that takes you directly to the Greek island of Corfu — and it only takes about 30 minutes (depending on the type of ferry you choose).

We didn’t have time to do it, but if we had one more day, we 100% would have. It's a quick and easy way to experience a taste of Greece, even just for a day trip.

DAY 4-5. 

A Quick Stop at Mirror Beach, Then On to Sarandë.

After wrapping up our time in Ksamil, we hit the road again for a short 30-minute drive to Sarandë, a coastal town full of charm and energy.

On the way, we made a quick stop at Mirror Beach (Pasqyra Beach) — and it was absolutely worth it. The road there was easy to navigate (no crazy off-roading or hikes involved), and the beach itself was beautiful, with clear turquoise water and a laid-back vibe. If you’re in the area and want to grab a bite or relax by the water, this is a great stopover spot before reaching Sarandë.

Staying at Bougainville Bay Resort – Sarandë

In Sarandë, we checked into the Bougainville Bay Resort, a stunning property I had been seeing all over Instagram. At just €150 per night, it was half the price of the other hotels we’d stayed at — so we were pretty excited.

The hotel is well-located abut here's something we wish we had known ahead of time:

  • The rooftop infinity pool that’s all over social media is not included for hotel guests. We had to pay €30 per person for a day pass to access the pool

  • Parking was also an additional cost

That said, we still highly recommend visiting — even if you’re not staying at the hotel. You can purchase a pool pass separately, and trust me, the sunset views from the rooftop were some of the most stunning of our entire trip. It ended up being the highlight of our time in Sarandë

During our time in Sarandë, we took things at a much more relaxed pace. After the busier, more adventurous parts of the trip, it was nice to just unwind and enjoy the town without any set plans. We spent our days simply walking around the area, exploring the local shops and cafes, checking out the spots near the hotel, and just enjoying a slower rhythm. Sarandë has a really easygoing charm, and it felt like the perfect place to take a breath and soak in the last few days of our trip.

DAY 6. 

The Final Stop: Tirana, Albania’s Capital

After several unforgettable days on the coast, our time in Albania was coming to an end. We left Sarandë and began the drive back to Tirana, the capital city — about a 4-hour journey. This time, I chose the less scenic but more straightforward route, prioritizing an easier and less stressful drive over winding mountain roads. While the drive didn’t offer much in terms of views, it was smooth and efficient — exactly what we needed after a week of road-tripping.

For our final night, we checked into a hotel called Central Inn, which cost €120 per night. It was a convenient and practical choice — located within walking distance to all the key architectural and historical landmarks in the city. Even though we only had 24 hours in Tirana, we made the most of it and managed to see most of the city’s highlights — from lively plazas and museums to beautifully designed government buildings and mosques that reflect Albania’s rich and layered history.

We wrapped up our last night in Albania with a sunset drink at the rooftop pool of Arka Art Hotel — and let me just say, it was the perfect send-off. The views over Tirana as the city lit up beneath the fading sun were absolutely breathtaking. Whether you’re staying there or not, I’d highly recommend stopping by this spot for a sunset moment.

Since we had some time before our flight the next day, I decided to treat myself and booked a nail appointment right next door to our hotel at a local salon. I was pleasantly surprised to find out a gel manicure only cost €15 — such a steal! It was the perfect little pampering session to end our Albanian adventure on a high note. Sometimes, it’s those unexpected moments of self-care that make a trip feel even more special.

I hope I’ve covered all of my adventures, tips, and recommendations and inspired you to book your trip to Albania. This beautiful country is truly underrated and has so much to offer — from stunning beaches and charming towns to rich history and delicious food.

That said, Albania is rapidly gaining popularity, and I expect it will become much more touristy and expensive very soon. So if you’re considering going, definitely try to visit sooner rather than later — before prices hike up like they have in the rest of Europe.

Trust me, this hidden gem deserves to be on your travel radar now.


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